How to Make Homemade Elderberry Gummies for Kids (Simple Recipe That Actually Works)

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Every fall, without fail, the sniffles start making their way through our neighborhood like they’re on some kind of schedule. And if you’ve got kids in any kind of co-op, church group, or just — you know — outside where kids gather, you know exactly what I’m talking about. Here in Northwest Florida, we don’t always get a dramatic seasonal shift, but the back-to-fall-rhythm still brings its share of congestion and coughs.

For years I was buying pre-made elderberry gummies from the health food store, and honestly? They were fine. But they were also expensive, full of ingredients I couldn’t always pronounce, and my kids went through them like candy. So I finally just made my own. And now I can’t imagine going back.

These homemade elderberry gummies have become a real staple in our house — the kids ask for them by name, they’re made from ingredients I trust, and the whole process is actually a lovely little kitchen moment we do together. Which, if you’re a Charlotte Mason mama like me, you know — that counts as school.

Why Elderberries?

Elderberries (Sambucus nigra) have been used for centuries as a natural support for the immune system, and modern research has started catching up to what our grandmothers already knew. They’re rich in antioxidants and vitamins, particularly vitamin C, and there’s real evidence they may help reduce the duration and severity of colds and flu.

Now, I’m not a doctor and I’m not here to make any medical claims — I’m just a Florida homeschool mama who likes to keep her family healthy with real food and smart choices. Elderberries fit beautifully into that. And when you make your own syrup at home, you control exactly what goes in.

If you want to skip straight to a ready-made kit while you’re still getting comfortable, this elderberry syrup kit is a great starting point — it comes with dried elderberries, spices, and instructions.

What You’ll Need

For the Elderberry Syrup:

• 1 cup dried black elderberries
• 3 cups water
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 4-5 whole cloves
• 1 tablespoon fresh grated ginger (or 1 tsp dried)
• 1 cup raw honey (added after cooking — never boil honey)

For the Gummies:

• 1 cup elderberry syrup (recipe above or store-bought)
• 3 tablespoons grass-fed gelatin powder (unflavored)
• Silicone molds (bear shapes are a huge hit at our house)

That’s it. Seriously.

How to Make the Elderberry Syrup

This is the part that sounds intimidating but really isn’t. It’s basically just simmering berries in water like you’re making tea.

1. Add your dried elderberries, water, cinnamon stick, cloves, and ginger to a medium saucepan.
2. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer uncovered for about 45 minutes to an hour, until the liquid has reduced by roughly half.
3. Remove from heat and let cool until it’s just warm — not hot.
4. Mash the berries gently with a fork or potato masher, then strain through a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth into a bowl. Press the berries to get all that good juice out.
5. Once the liquid is cooled to lukewarm (this is important — you don’t want to destroy the enzymes in raw honey), stir in the honey until fully combined.

Your syrup will keep in the refrigerator in a mason jar for 2-3 months. We use it in the gummies AND sometimes just take a spoonful straight — my kids genuinely like the taste.

Turning the Syrup Into Gummies

This step takes maybe 10 minutes, and then you just wait for them to set.

1. Pour 1 cup of your elderberry syrup into a small saucepan over low heat. You want it warm but not boiling — around 100-110°F if you’re using a thermometer.
2. Sprinkle the gelatin powder over the warm syrup a little at a time, whisking constantly to avoid clumping. Keep whisking until it’s fully dissolved and the mixture is smooth.
3. Pour into silicone molds. I use a small measuring cup with a pour spout to make this less messy. Bear molds, star shapes, dinosaurs — whatever your kids are into works great.
4. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours until fully set.
5. Pop them out and store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to two weeks.

Dosing note: We typically do 1-2 gummies per day for our kids as a regular wellness routine, and up to 4 per day when something is going around. But again — talk to your pediatrician if you have specific questions.

Making This a School Moment

One of the things I genuinely love about our Charlotte Mason approach is that real life is learning. Making elderberry gummies with your kids hits more subjects than you might think:

• Science: Why do we cook the berries? What does gelatin do? Why can’t we boil the honey? These are real chemistry questions with real answers.
• Math: Measuring, halving or doubling the recipe, timing the simmer.
• History/Nature Study: Where do elderberries grow? What did people use them for before modern medicine? This dovetails beautifully into herbal lore and nature notebooks.

My kids love to sketch the dried elderberries in their nature journals before we start cooking. It’s become a little ritual. And if you want to go deeper into the plant identification side of things, the Sibley field guides are wonderful for older kids who want to learn more about native plants and their uses.

A Few Tips I’ve Learned the Hard Way

Don’t skip the whisking. If you dump all the gelatin in at once, you’ll get lumpy gummies. Sprinkle and whisk, sprinkle and whisk.

Keep the honey raw. This is a big one for me. Raw honey has enzymes and beneficial properties that get destroyed by heat. Always let your syrup cool before adding it.

Use a silicone mold. Plastic molds are a pain and gummies stick to them. Silicone pops right out.

Label and date your jar. I keep our syrup in the fridge in a wide-mouth mason jar with a little piece of tape that says when I made it. Two to three months is the guideline, but it honestly never lasts that long around here.

Double the batch. This recipe is so easy once you get the hang of it — just make more. We go through these fast.

This is also a great recipe to pull out as part of a broader seasonal wellness rhythm for your family. We’ve written about that kind of intentional seasonal living over here: Seasonal Living Ideas for Families: Simple Ways to Celebrate Every Season All Year Long.

Keeping It Non-Toxic

Part of why I started making these at home was the ingredient list on store-bought gummies — corn syrup, artificial flavors, carrageenan. None of that needed to be in my kids’ daily wellness routine. Homemade means I know exactly what’s in them.

We try to approach our whole home that way — thoughtful, intentional, nothing I can’t pronounce or spell. If you’re on that same journey and looking for more non-toxic swaps for your home and cleaning routine, I love sourcing from Grove Collaborative for a lot of our household basics.

And if you want to dig further into simple living as a whole family practice — not just the products but the mindset — this post is one of my favorites: Simple Living with Kids: Practical Tips That Actually Work for Real Families.

The 1990s Parallel

Here’s what I keep thinking about with things like this: our moms and grandmothers made stuff. They made chicken soup, they made herbal teas, they trusted simple remedies that had been passed down. Somewhere along the way we got convinced that if something wasn’t in a bottle with a UPC code and a clinical study attached, it wasn’t legitimate.

I’m not anti-medicine. Not even a little. But I do believe in bringing some of that old-fashioned, trust-your-kitchen wisdom back. And making a batch of elderberry gummies with my kids on a slow Tuesday morning feels like exactly that. We’re stirring something on the stove together, talking about where elderberries come from, and making something that’s going to take care of our family. That’s the kind of memory I want them to have.

📖 You Might Also Like:

• Non-Toxic Play Mat for Babies: What to Actually Look For (and What to Skip)
• Best Picture Books for Nature-Loving Kids (That Actually Hold Their Attention)
• Seasonal Living Ideas for Families: Simple Ways to Celebrate Every Season All Year Long

Frequently Asked Questions

Are homemade elderberry gummies safe for kids?

Yes, when made properly, elderberry gummies are generally considered safe for kids. The key is to always cook the raw elderberries before using them — raw elderberries contain a compound that can cause nausea if eaten uncooked. Cooked and strained elderberry syrup is what goes into the gummies. Always check with your pediatrician if your child has specific health conditions or takes any medications.

How long do homemade elderberry gummies last?

Stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator, homemade elderberry gummies typically last up to two weeks. Because they’re made with real fruit syrup and honey rather than preservatives, they won’t last as long as commercial versions — but they also disappear pretty fast once the kids find them.

Can I use store-bought elderberry syrup to make gummies?

Absolutely. If you don’t have time to make your own syrup from scratch, a high-quality store-bought elderberry syrup works just fine in this recipe. Just look for one made with clean ingredients — ideally raw honey, no corn syrup or artificial flavors. You can also use an elderberry syrup kit to make your own in less time than you’d think.

What kind of gelatin should I use for elderberry gummies?

Grass-fed, unflavored gelatin powder is what you want. Look for brands that source from pasture-raised animals for the best quality. Avoid flavored gelatin mixes — those have sugar and artificial ingredients that you don’t need here. The gelatin is what gives the gummies their chewy texture and also adds a nice protein boost.

How many elderberry gummies should kids take per day?

Most families use 1-2 gummies per day as a general wellness routine and increase to 3-4 per day when illness is going around or the child is already sick. That said, dosing recommendations vary, and I’d always encourage checking with your pediatrician for personalized guidance, especially for younger children or kids with health conditions.

Best Natural Remedies for Chicken Mites (What Actually Works Without Harsh Chemicals)

This post contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

You go out to collect eggs one morning, flip a hen over to check on her, and there they are — tiny little specks moving around near her vent feathers. Your stomach drops a little. I know that feeling. The first time I spotted mites on one of our girls, I immediately went into research mode while simultaneously trying not to let my kids see me freak out.

Here’s the thing about keeping backyard chickens in Florida: the heat and humidity create a near-perfect environment for mites and other parasites to thrive. It’s just part of the deal down here. But that doesn’t mean you have to reach for a chemical pesticide the second you spot them. There are genuinely effective natural remedies for chicken mites, and we’ve tested most of them ourselves in our little Pensacola backyard flock.

First, Know What You’re Dealing With

Not all chicken mites are the same, and identifying which type you have actually matters.

Northern Fowl Mites live on the bird itself — you’ll find them clustered around the vent, under the wings, and near the base of the tail feathers. These are the most common in backyard flocks and the ones you’re most likely to catch during a routine check.

Red Poultry Mites (also called chicken mites or roost mites) hide in the coop during the day and come out at night to feed. If you go out after dark with a flashlight and see tiny red or gray dots moving around the roost bars and cracks in the wood — that’s them.

Knowing which one you have helps you target your treatment more effectively. If you want to go deeper on coop pest management, I’ve got a whole post on Best Natural Bug Spray for Chicken Coops (What Actually Works and Won’t Harm Your Flock) that covers the broader topic.

The Best Natural Remedies for Chicken Mites

1. Diatomaceous Earth (Food Grade Only)

This is the one most chicken keepers already know about, and for good reason — it works. Food grade diatomaceous earth is made from fossilized algae, and the microscopic sharp edges physically damage the exoskeletons of mites and insects, causing them to dry out and die. It’s mechanical, not chemical.

How we use it:

• Dust it directly into your dust bath area (your hens will do the work themselves)
• Sprinkle it along roost bars, in coop corners, and in the nesting boxes
• Apply lightly to affected birds, working it gently into the feathers near the vent and under the wings

Wear a mask when you’re applying it — the fine powder isn’t great to breathe in for you or the birds if you’re pouring it heavily. Use it as part of your regular coop maintenance rather than waiting for an outbreak.

2. Neem Oil

Neem oil is one of those things that genuinely earns its reputation. It’s a natural insecticide derived from the neem tree, and it works against mites by disrupting their life cycle and suffocating them. Mix a few drops of pure neem oil with water and a tiny bit of liquid dish soap (to help it emulsify), then spray it directly onto the birds — avoiding eyes — and into the coop crevices.

For ongoing prevention, Wondercide makes a plant-based pest control spray that we use around our property and have used safely around the coop. It’s one of those products where I feel genuinely good about what I’m spraying near my kids and animals.

3. Wood Ash Dust Baths

If you have a fire pit or wood stove, save your wood ash. Adding it to your chickens’ dust bath area is an old-school remedy that actually has solid logic behind it — the alkaline, fine-particulate nature of wood ash suffocates and deters mites similarly to diatomaceous earth. Mix it into the dust bath area and let your hens do what they naturally want to do anyway.

This is one of those 1990s-era homestead tricks that got forgotten when chemical products took over, and honestly, it’s one of the simplest things you can add to your regular chicken routine.

4. Herbs in the Nesting Boxes

Fresh or dried herbs like lavender, mint, rosemary, and yarrow have natural insect-repelling properties. Tucking them into your nesting boxes serves double duty — it deters mites and other insects while also acting as a mild stress reducer for your hens (lavender especially).

We love this one because it doubles as a nature study moment. My kids help harvest herbs from our little garden and stuff them into the boxes. It’s simple, it smells wonderful, and it actually helps.

5. Clean, Dry Bedding — More Often Than You Think

This one isn’t glamorous but it’s probably the most important natural remedy on this list: keep your coop clean and dry. Mites thrive in warm, damp, dirty conditions — which, let’s be honest, describes a Florida chicken coop in July if we’re not on top of it.

Deep litter can work beautifully when managed well, but if you’re dealing with an active infestation, a full clean-out is necessary. Pull everything out, let the coop air and dry in the sun, dust with diatomaceous earth, and start fresh with clean bedding.

If coop chores feel like a lot, rope the kids in — I’ve got a whole post on How to Involve Kids in Homestead Chores by Age (Without the Whining or the Burnout) that might help make this more sustainable for your family.

6. Garlic Water

Anecdotal but worth mentioning — some backyard chicken keepers swear by adding crushed garlic or garlic juice to the flock’s drinking water. The theory is that it makes the blood less appealing to mites. The research isn’t conclusive, but garlic is good for immunity in general, it won’t harm your birds, and it costs almost nothing to try. We’ve used it during active outbreaks just to cover all our bases.

Speaking of waterers — if you’re still fighting slime and mess with traditional waterers, switching to a nipple-style chicken waterer keeps the water cleaner and reduces the damp conditions mites love.

Treating an Active Infestation: What We Actually Do

When we have an active outbreak, we run a full protocol rather than just one thing:

1. Full coop cleanout — remove all bedding, scrub surfaces
2. Let the coop dry completely in the Florida sun (usually only takes a few hours in summer)
3. Dust every crack, corner, and roost bar with diatomaceous earth
4. Treat affected birds by applying diatomaceous earth or a diluted neem oil spray to feathers
5. Refresh the dust bath with a mix of DE, wood ash, and sand
6. Add herbs to nesting boxes
7. Repeat in 7-10 days to catch any eggs that hatched

For ongoing monitoring, I also recommend doing a regular flock check — flip each bird over, look near the vent and under wings, check the skin for any redness or feather loss. Making it a routine means you catch things early. Storey’s Guide to Raising Chickens has a great section on parasite identification and prevention if you want a solid reference to keep on your shelf.

If your kids are old enough to be helping with chicken care, A Kid’s Guide to Keeping Chickens is a wonderful resource that explains flock health in a way that makes sense to elementary-age children — very Charlotte Mason in spirit, rooted in real observation and care.

A Note on Chemical Treatments

I’m not here to tell you that you should never use conventional treatments — there are situations where a serious infestation, a stressed bird, or a health concern might mean you need to bring in something stronger. Talk to a livestock vet if your birds are losing significant weight, going off lay, or showing skin damage. Natural remedies work beautifully for prevention and mild-to-moderate outbreaks, but know your limits.

Dealing with chicken mites is just part of the backyard flock journey, especially here in the Gulf Coast heat. But you don’t have to feel helpless or reach for something you’re not comfortable with. A little diatomaceous earth, some neem oil, clean bedding, and consistent monitoring goes a really long way. Our girls stay relatively healthy because we’ve built these habits into our regular rhythm — and honestly, checking on the chickens is one of our kids’ favorite parts of the school day. There’s real learning in it. Real responsibility. Real life.

That’s what this whole thing is about, right?

📖 You Might Also Like:

• Best Natural Bug Spray for Chicken Coops (What Actually Works and Won’t Harm Your Flock)
• How to Involve Kids in Homestead Chores by Age (Without the Whining or the Burnout)
• Best Chicken Breeds for Egg Color Variety (And Which Ones Actually Thrive in Florida)

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the fastest natural remedy for chicken mites?

Food grade diatomaceous earth applied directly to the birds and throughout the coop is one of the fastest-acting natural remedies. It works mechanically by damaging the mites’ exoskeletons, and you’ll often see a noticeable reduction within a few days. Pair it with a full coop cleanout for best results.

Can chicken mites spread to humans or dogs?

Northern fowl mites and red poultry mites can temporarily bite humans and pets if the infestation is severe, but they cannot complete their life cycle on us — we’re not their preferred host. You may notice itching or small red bites if you’re in heavy contact with an infested flock, but they won’t set up permanent residence on people or dogs. Treat your flock promptly and the problem resolves.

How often should I apply diatomaceous earth for mite prevention?

For prevention, applying food grade diatomaceous earth to your dust bath area, nesting boxes, and roost bars every 2-4 weeks is a good rhythm. In Florida’s humid summers, you may want to refresh more frequently since humidity can reduce its effectiveness. Always reapply after a heavy rain or a full coop cleanout.

Does neem oil actually work on chicken mites?

Yes — neem oil works by disrupting the mite life cycle and suffocating them on contact. Dilute it with water and a small amount of dish soap to help it mix, then spray onto affected areas of the bird and into coop crevices. It’s not an instant kill like some chemical treatments, but used consistently it’s genuinely effective and safe.

How do I know if my chicken has mites or lice?

Mites are tiny and fast-moving — often visible as small moving dots near the vent, under wings, or on the skin. Red poultry mites may appear grayish when unfed and red after feeding. Lice are larger, yellowish, and tend to cluster at the base of feathers, often leaving visible egg clusters (nits) on the feather shafts. Both are treatable with natural methods like diatomaceous earth, but it helps to identify which parasite you’re dealing with for targeted treatment.

How to Build a Simple Compost Bin for Beginners (No Skills Required)

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For the longest time, I had a pile of good intentions sitting right next to my back door. Literally. Every time I peeled a banana or trimmed green beans, I’d think, I really should be composting this. Then I’d toss it in the trash and feel a little guilty about it.

The thing is, I’d always pictured composting as something that required a special bin, a complicated system, and some kind of degree in soil science. It seemed like one of those things other people did — the really organized homesteaders with Pinterest-perfect setups and color-coded turning schedules.

Y’all. It is so much simpler than that.

Once I actually built our first compost bin — like, a real physical structure I could toss scraps into — it clicked. Now composting is just part of our daily rhythm, the kids fight over who gets to dump the kitchen bucket, and our backyard chickens have the most beautiful soil in the whole neighborhood. Here’s exactly how we got there.

Why Bother Building a Bin at All?

You can just compost in a pile on the ground. Plenty of people do. But a simple bin keeps things contained (important if you’ve got a dog — our mini labradoodle would absolutely riot in an open pile), holds in some moisture, and helps the pile heat up faster, which means finished compost sooner.

Down here in Northwest Florida, heat is already on our side for most of the year. A contained bin just helps us use that to our advantage.

And honestly? A bin makes it feel more intentional. More like a system. Which means we actually use it.

The Simplest Compost Bin You Can Build This Weekend

What You’ll Need

There are about a dozen ways to build a compost bin, but I’m going to give you the one that requires the least skill, the least money, and the least time — because that’s the one you’ll actually do.

Option 1: Wire Hoop Bin (Our Favorite for Beginners)

This is our go-to. It takes about 20 minutes to put together and costs next to nothing if you already have some wire fencing lying around.

• 10 feet of hardware cloth or welded wire fencing (about 3–4 feet tall)
• 3–4 wooden stakes or metal T-posts
• Zip ties or wire to connect the ends
• Work gloves (wire edges are poky — grab some kids’ garden gloves if the littles are helping)

Just form the wire into a circle, secure the ends together, and pound your stakes in around the outside for support. That’s it. You’ve got a compost bin.

Option 2: Wooden Pallet Bin

If you want something sturdier and more permanent, grab 3–4 wooden pallets (most feed stores and hardware stores give these away free), stand them upright in a U-shape, and wire them together at the corners. Leave the front open or add a fourth pallet that can be removed for easy turning. This is a great Saturday project to do with older kids.

Option 3: A Purchased Bin

No shame in this at all. A good kitchen compost bin for countertop scraps plus a basic outdoor tumbler is a perfectly valid setup, especially if you’re short on yard space or time. We use a small countertop bin to collect scraps through the week and then transfer to the outdoor bin — it makes the whole process a lot less messy.

What Goes In (and What Doesn’t)

This is the part that trips people up the most, so let’s keep it simple.

Greens (nitrogen-rich):

• Fruit and vegetable scraps
• Coffee grounds and filters
• Fresh grass clippings
• Chicken manure and bedding (yes — this is liquid gold from our girls)
• Fresh plant trimmings

Browns (carbon-rich):

• Dry leaves
• Cardboard (torn up, no glossy coatings)
• Paper bags and newspaper
• Straw or pine shavings from the chicken coop
• Dry garden debris

The basic rule is to aim for roughly 2–3 parts browns to every 1 part greens. If your pile smells bad, add more browns. If it’s not breaking down, it might need more greens or more moisture.

Don’t add: meat, dairy, cooked food with oils, diseased plants, or dog/cat waste.

Getting Kids Involved (The Best Part)

This is genuinely one of our favorite nature study activities, and it requires zero prep on my end. Kids are naturally fascinated by decomposition — it’s basically science magic happening right in the backyard.

We keep a small kitchen compost bin on the counter, and it’s become one of the kids’ daily jobs to carry it out and dump it. My youngest calls herself the Compost Queen. I’m not going to argue.

For a little more structured nature study, we’ve used a pocket microscope to look at compost material up close — the fungi and tiny organisms you can see are absolutely wild. Pair that with some sketching in a nature journal and you’ve got a full Charlotte Mason science lesson without opening a single textbook. We also keep a bug collection kit handy for when we find something interesting while turning the pile.

If you want more ideas for weaving this kind of daily hands-on work into your kids’ lives without it feeling like school, check out our post on How to Involve Kids in Homestead Chores by Age (Without the Whining or the Burnout). Spoiler: the trick is making it feel less like a chore and more like a role.

How to Actually Maintain It (Without Overthinking It)

Here’s the secret: you don’t have to be perfect at this. A compost pile will do its thing even if you’re not turning it on a schedule or monitoring the moisture levels obsessively.

That said, a few easy habits make it work a lot better:

Turn It Occasionally

Every couple of weeks (or whenever you remember), use a pitchfork or shovel to mix the pile up. This introduces oxygen and speeds up decomposition. In the Florida heat, things break down fast — sometimes we’ve had usable compost in as little as 6–8 weeks in the summer.

Keep It Moist, Not Wet

The pile should feel like a wrung-out sponge. Down here, summer rain usually handles this for us. In the drier winter months, you might need to water it a little.

Layer as You Go

When you add kitchen scraps, try to cover them with a layer of browns. This keeps smells down (important if your bin is near the back door) and helps balance the pile.

And if you want to take things even further, consider adding a worm composting bin for kitchen scraps — vermicomposting produces incredibly rich castings and is a great companion to a regular outdoor pile. We wrote a whole post on that: Best Worm Composting Bin for Beginners (What Actually Works and Why We Love It).

How the Chickens Fit In

If you’ve got backyard chickens, composting and chicken keeping go hand in hand in the best possible way. Chicken manure and bedding are some of the richest compost ingredients you can add, and the finished compost goes right back into the garden beds that grow food for the family.

We let our girls scratch through the older parts of the pile occasionally — they eat bugs, turn the material, and seem deeply satisfied with themselves afterward. It’s a whole little ecosystem happening right behind our house.

For more on keeping a healthy flock without a lot of fuss, Storey’s Guide to Raising Chickens is the book I recommend to every new chicken keeper. It covers everything from manure management to coop setup in a way that’s actually readable.

You Don’t Need a Perfect System — You Just Need to Start

Here’s what I want you to take away from this: the best compost bin is the one you actually build and use. It doesn’t have to be pretty. It doesn’t have to be Pinterest-worthy. Ours is a slightly lopsided wire hoop in the corner of the yard, and I love it.

This is the kind of slow, purposeful, real thing I want my kids growing up doing. Turning scraps into soil. Watching things break down and become something useful again. Understanding in a very concrete way that nothing is wasted. That’s the 1990s-style childhood I’m always chasing — not the nostalgia, but the substance of it. Getting your hands in the dirt and knowing that what you do actually matters.

Start with whatever materials you have. Make it simple. Get the kids involved. The rest will follow.

📖 You Might Also Like:

• Best Worm Composting Bin for Beginners (What Actually Works and Why We Love It)
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Frequently Asked Questions

What is the easiest compost bin to build for beginners?

The simplest option is a wire hoop bin — just form a circle with hardware cloth or welded wire fencing, secure the ends with zip ties, and stake it in place. It takes about 20 minutes to set up, costs very little, and works really well. If you want something sturdier, three wooden pallets wired together in a U-shape is another great beginner option that requires no special tools or skills.

What should you not put in a compost bin?

Avoid adding meat, fish, dairy, cooked foods with oils or sauces, pet waste (dog or cat), and diseased plants. These can attract pests, create odors, or introduce pathogens into your compost. Stick to raw fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, dry leaves, cardboard, and yard waste for best results.

How long does it take for compost to be ready?

It depends on your climate, how often you turn the pile, and what you’re adding. In a warm, humid climate like Northwest Florida, a well-managed pile can produce usable compost in as little as 6–8 weeks in the summer. In cooler weather or with less turning, it might take 3–6 months. You’ll know it’s ready when it looks dark, crumbly, and smells like earthy soil.

Can you compost chicken manure?

Yes — and it’s fantastic for your compost pile! Chicken manure is nitrogen-rich and breaks down beautifully when mixed with carbon-rich browns like straw, dry leaves, or cardboard. If you have backyard chickens, the used bedding from your coop is some of the best material you can add. Just make sure it gets well mixed and has time to decompose before adding it directly to garden beds.

How do I keep my compost bin from smelling bad?

A smelly compost bin usually means one of two things: too many greens (nitrogen-rich materials) without enough browns to balance them, or too much moisture. The fix is usually simple — add a layer of dry leaves, torn cardboard, or straw on top of any fresh scraps you add, and give the pile a turn to introduce some airflow. Aim for a ratio of roughly 2–3 parts browns to 1 part greens, and make sure your bin has some drainage so it doesn’t get waterlogged.

Best Living History Books for Elementary Homeschool (That Kids Actually Want to Read)

This post contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

If you’ve ever watched a kid’s eyes glaze over during a history lesson, you already know the problem. Dates. Bullet points. Textbook summaries that suck all the life out of something that was actually pretty remarkable. I’ve been there. I handed my oldest a traditional history workbook once and she looked at me like I’d asked her to sort feed corn. Hard pass.

The Charlotte Mason approach fixed all of that for us — not by dumbing history down, but by letting real storytelling do the heavy lifting. Charlotte Mason called them “living books” — books written by authors who genuinely loved their subject and could make you feel like you were there. And once we made the switch? History became one of our favorite subjects. We read aloud under the oak tree in the backyard, our chickens scratching around nearby, our labradoodle sprawled across someone’s feet, and nobody was watching the clock.

If you’re homeschooling in Florida or anywhere else and you’re ready to ditch the textbook, this list is for you.

What Makes a Book a “Living History Book” Anyway?

A living history book is one that reads like a story, not a report. It’s written with personality and passion. It pulls you into the time period instead of just describing it from the outside. Charlotte Mason believed that children learn best through rich narratives, and honestly? She was right. This is basically the 1990s way of learning — fewer worksheets, more stories, more imagination.

A good living history book will:

• Have a real human being (or animal!) at the center of the story
• Use descriptive, vivid language — not dry summaries
• Be written by someone who genuinely cared about the subject
• Leave your kid with feelings about history, not just facts

For pairing with your Charlotte Mason nature study, check out our Charlotte Mason Nature Study Journal Prompts by Season (For Real Kids Who’d Rather Be Outside) — history and nature study honestly work together beautifully in our rhythm.

Our Favorite Living History Books by Time Period

American History

The Little House Series by Laura Ingalls Wilder — This is the gold standard for living books about 19th-century American life. Frontier living, family rhythms, hard work, and real joy. My kids ask for “just one more chapter” every single time. The whole series covers westward expansion in a way no textbook ever could.

The Courage of Sarah Noble by Alice Dalgliesh — A short, powerful story about a young girl who travels with her father into the Connecticut wilderness in the 1700s. Great for K-2. Finishes in just a few read-aloud sessions and always sparks conversation.

Johnny Tremain by Esther Forbes — Older elementary (grades 4–5), but absolutely worth it for the American Revolution. The writing is rich and the characters are compelling. One of those books that sticks with you.

Amos Fortune, Free Man by Elizabeth Yates — A Newbery Medal winner about an African man captured into slavery who eventually earns his freedom. Honest, dignified, and beautifully written. This is not a comfortable book and it shouldn’t be. It’s the kind of story that changes how kids see history.

Ancient History

The Golden Goblet by Eloise Jarvis McGraw — Ancient Egypt through the eyes of a young goldsmith’s apprentice. Suspenseful and immersive. My daughter read this in two days flat and then asked if we could study hieroglyphics. Yes, please.

The Bronze Bow by Elizabeth George Speare — Set in ancient Israel during the time of Roman occupation. A beautifully written coming-of-age story. Best for grades 4 and up. Another Newbery winner that earns its medal.

Medieval History

Adam of the Road by Elizabeth Janet Gray — A 13th-century minstrel boy traveling through medieval England. Rich with detail, warm in tone, and genuinely adventurous. Great for grades 3–5.

Catherine Called Birdy by Karen Cushman — Middle ages through the eyes of a spirited teenage girl who does NOT want to get married off. Funny, feisty, and packed with historical detail. Slightly older (grades 4–5), but kids who like humor eat this up.

World History

Mara, Daughter of the Nile by Eloise Jarvis McGraw — Ancient Egypt again, but this one is more of a spy thriller. Older elementary loves this one.

The Wheel on the School by Meindert DeJong — Set in a small Dutch fishing village. It’s not action-packed, but it’s deeply human and teaches kids so much about community, perseverance, and cooperation. A quiet favorite in our home.

How We Use Living Books in Our Homeschool Day

We don’t read living history books and then fill out worksheets about them. That kind of defeats the purpose. Instead, we:

Read aloud together. Most of these books I read aloud to my kids. There’s something about hearing a story told out loud that lands differently than reading silently. Our mornings often start with a chapter before anything else.

Narrate instead of test. Charlotte Mason used narration — just asking your child to tell back what they heard. No quiz, no worksheet. Just “what happened?” or “tell me about Amos.” The retelling itself is the learning.

Draw and paint scenes. After a chapter that really landed, we’ll get out the Faber-Castell watercolors and paint a scene. A medieval road. A covered wagon. The Nile at sunset. It deepens the memory without feeling like school.

Add to the nature journal. If a book mentions plants, animals, or weather patterns from a specific region or era, we sketch them in our nature journal. History and nature study crossing paths is one of my favorite things about Charlotte Mason.

Let them just absorb it. Sometimes a book just does its job quietly. Kids will bring up a character weeks later at dinner, or connect something they read to something they see outside. That’s living education working exactly the way it’s supposed to.

For more on building a rhythm that fits your family — not someone else’s schedule — Family Rhythm vs Routine: What Actually Works is worth a read.

A Few Practical Tips for Florida Homeschool Families

If you’re using the Florida PEP scholarship, living books absolutely count toward your curriculum spending. Many of these titles are available through vendors like Rainbow Resource and Timberdoodle, both of which are PEP-eligible suppliers. Stock up — a great book library is one of the best investments you’ll make in your homeschool.

Also — if you’re newer to homeschooling in Florida and still figuring out your legal setup, Florida Homeschool Umbrella School Options Explained is the clearest breakdown I’ve written on the subject.

One more thing: reading aloud outside is always better than reading inside, especially in fall and winter here in Northwest Florida when the weather is actually perfect. Grab a blanket, let the kids sit in the grass, and read a chapter while they fidget and listen and absorb more than you think they are. It’s the 1990s childhood approach to education — low-tech, high-relationship, and it works.

Wrapping It Up

Honestly, living history books changed everything about how history feels in our homeschool. My kids talk about these characters like they knew them. They care about what happened. They ask questions. They want to know more. That’s exactly what a history education should do — not produce kids who can fill in a timeline, but kids who understand that real people made real choices in real moments that shaped the world they’re living in now.

Start with one book. Read it aloud. See what happens. I think you’ll be surprised.

📖 You Might Also Like:

• Charlotte Mason Nature Study Journal Prompts by Season (For Real Kids Who’d Rather Be Outside)
• Family Rhythm vs Routine: What Actually Works (and Why the Difference Matters More Than You Think)
• Florida Homeschool Umbrella School Options Explained (So You Can Pick the Right One and Move On)

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a living history book in Charlotte Mason homeschool?

A living history book is a book written with passion and narrative storytelling that pulls readers into a time period rather than just listing facts. Charlotte Mason believed children learn best through rich stories written by authors who genuinely love their subject, rather than dry textbook summaries. These books have real characters, vivid language, and make history feel personal and meaningful.

What are the best living history books for elementary-age kids?

Some of the most beloved living history books for elementary homeschool include the Little House on the Prairie series, Johnny Tremain, The Courage of Sarah Noble, Amos Fortune Free Man, The Golden Goblet, Adam of the Road, and The Bronze Bow. These titles span American history, ancient history, and medieval history and are staples in Charlotte Mason homeschool communities.

Can I use living books to meet Florida homeschool requirements?

Yes. Florida law requires that homeschool families provide a sequentially progressive curriculum of fundamental skills, and living books absolutely count as part of your history and language arts instruction. If you’re using the Florida PEP scholarship, many of these books can be purchased through PEP-eligible vendors like Rainbow Resource or Timberdoodle.

How do I use living history books without worksheets or tests?

Charlotte Mason recommended narration — simply asking your child to tell back what they heard or read in their own words. This can be verbal, written, or even drawn. You can also pair books with artwork, map work, or nature journal entries connected to the time period. The goal is engagement and retention through relationship with the story, not rote recall.

How many living history books should I use per school year?

There’s no set number, but most Charlotte Mason-inspired families use one or two main living history books per term (roughly 12 weeks), supplemented by shorter picture books, biographies, or poetry from the same era. Quality and depth matter more than quantity — one book read slowly and discussed well is worth far more than five books skimmed through.

Non-Toxic Play Mat for Babies: What to Actually Look For (and What to Skip)

This post contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

When my youngest was still at the rolling-around-on-the-floor stage, I did what any well-meaning mama does: I went online, searched “baby play mat,” and promptly fell into a rabbit hole of brightly colored foam squares, pastel padded rugs, and approximately 4,000 conflicting Amazon reviews. What I didn’t realize at the time was that the cute foam mat I almost ordered was made with materials I’d spend the next year trying to get out of our house.

Here’s the thing — when you’re already being intentional about what you feed your baby, what sunscreen goes on their skin (non-toxic sunscreen matters, y’all), and what cleaning products live under your sink, it makes zero sense to park them face-down on a mat full of questionable chemicals for hours a day. Babies mouth everything. They press their faces into the floor. They breathe in whatever’s off-gassing right at nose level.

So let’s actually talk about what makes a play mat safe — and what you’re really looking at when you’re shopping.

Why Most Conventional Play Mats Are a Problem

The majority of budget foam play mats — especially those interlocking puzzle-piece ones — are made from EVA foam (ethylene-vinyl acetate). EVA itself isn’t the villain, but the manufacturing process often introduces formamide, a chemical that can off-gas from the foam and has been flagged in European safety studies as a concern for young children.

Beyond that, a lot of mats contain:

• PVC (polyvinyl chloride) — which can leach phthalates, especially when warm
• BPA and other bisphenols — sometimes found in plastic-based foam blends
• Flame retardants — added to meet flammability standards, but linked to endocrine disruption
• Heavy metals — occasionally found in the dyes used for bright colors and prints

And here in Florida, this matters extra. Our homes are warm. Warm surfaces off-gas more. A mat sitting in a sunny living room in July in Pensacola is a different situation than one in a cool, temperate climate. That’s not fear-mongering — it’s just chemistry.

What to Look For Instead

Certifications That Actually Mean Something

Not every “non-toxic” claim on a product label has teeth behind it. These certifications are worth looking for:

• OEKO-TEX Standard 100 — tests for harmful substances in textiles; one of the most reliable
• GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) — applies to organic fiber mats and covers the full supply chain
• GREENGUARD Gold — focuses on chemical emissions and indoor air quality
• formamide-free certification — specifically for EVA foam; a legit claim when third-party verified

If a brand can’t tell you which third party tested their product, that’s your answer.

Materials Worth Considering

Natural rubber is one of the safest options out there. It’s durable, naturally antimicrobial, and doesn’t require the same chemical load that synthetic foams do. The trade-off is cost — natural rubber mats tend to run higher.

Organic cotton or wool play mats with a natural rubber backing are another solid option. They’re washable, soft, and if they’re GOTS certified, you know the fiber was grown and processed without a laundry list of pesticides.

Cork has also made a comeback — naturally antimicrobial, sustainably harvested, and a good firm surface for tummy time.

If you do go with foam, look specifically for formamide-free, phthalate-free, BPA-free EVA with a GREENGUARD Gold certification. It still exists in the foam category — you just have to look harder.

Size, Thickness, and Practicality

Beyond materials, here’s what I’d actually think through before buying:

Thickness matters for tummy time. A too-thin mat doesn’t cushion little elbows during those early months. Aim for at least half an inch for newborn through rolling stage, and thicker if you have hard tile floors (hello, Florida homes).

Waterproofing vs. washability. A mat with a wipeable surface is practical but can mean more synthetic coatings. A fabric mat that’s fully machine washable is often the cleaner option — just check that the backing isn’t coated in something questionable.

Size for older babies. Once your baby becomes a toddler tearing through the house on a labradoodle’s heels (ask me how I know), a bigger mat keeps them cushioned through the cruising and falling stage. Our mini labradoodle also claimed our play mat as her personal napping spot, so.

Neutral over loud prints. I know this sounds like an aesthetic preference, and it partly is — but heavily dyed, bright foam is more likely to use synthetic colorants that haven’t always been tested for safety. A neutral, minimal print tends to correlate with simpler manufacturing.

What We Use and Why

We’ve gone through a few iterations in our house. We eventually landed on a natural rubber mat with an organic cotton top layer — it’s held up through multiple kids, wipes down reasonably well, and I don’t stress about it.

For cleaning, we skip anything with fragrance or harsh disinfectants. A little castile soap and water does the job. If you’re looking for safe cleaning products that won’t leave a residue on surfaces your baby touches, Grove Collaborative is where we order most of our household staples — it’s made restocking genuinely easy.

This same thinking applies across our whole home, honestly. It’s the same reason we use Wondercide in our chicken coop and yard instead of conventional pesticides — I don’t want my kids crawling around in chemical residue any more than I want them on a mat full of off-gassing foam. It’s all connected.

If you’re working on the bigger picture of a non-toxic home with littles, this pairs well with what I wrote in Intentional Parenting: What It Actually Looks Like Day to Day — because it really does come down to small, consistent choices over time, not overhauling everything at once.

A Word About Budget

I’m not going to pretend safe play mats are cheap. Natural rubber and GOTS-certified textiles cost more than a $25 foam puzzle mat from a big box store. That’s real.

A few thoughts on this:

First, buy once, buy right when you can. A quality mat that lasts through multiple kids (or gets passed to a friend) is a better value long-term than replacing cheap ones.

Second, check the secondhand market. Facebook Marketplace and local buy-nothing groups often have gently used mats from families who invested in quality. Wipe it down well and it’s fine.

Third, prioritize. If the budget is tight, focus your non-toxic dollars on the things with highest exposure — mat included, since babies spend so much time on them. This is one area I’d genuinely prioritize over, say, whether your dish soap is perfectly clean (though that matters too — see Non-Toxic Dish Soap That Actually Cuts Grease).

A Few More Things Worth Keeping Non-Toxic Near Baby

While we’re here — if you’re thinking through your baby’s immediate environment, these are worth checking too:

• Non-toxic sunscreen for Florida days outside
• Stainless steel water bottles as they move toward sippy stage
• Beeswax wrap instead of plastic wrap for snacks and food storage

And if you want to go deeper on the baby product side of things, I’ve got a full breakdown in Non-Toxic Baby Products: What to Actually Buy (and What’s Just Marketing Hype).

The Bottom Line

You don’t have to be perfect at this. None of us are. But if there’s one surface in your home worth being picky about, it’s the one your baby’s face is pressed into for tummy time at 10 a.m. Look for third-party certifications, prioritize natural materials when you can, and don’t let the marketing language on the package do your thinking for you.

Your baby is worth the extra fifteen minutes of research. And honestly? So is your peace of mind as a mama. We’ve got enough to worry about — the play mat doesn’t have to be one of them.

📖 You Might Also Like:

• Non-Toxic Baby Products: What to Actually Buy (and What’s Just Marketing Hype)
• How to Raise Grateful Kids in a Consumer Culture (Without the Lectures)
• Intentional Parenting: What It Actually Looks Like Day to Day

Frequently Asked Questions

What materials should I avoid in a baby play mat?

Avoid mats made with PVC, which can leach phthalates, and EVA foam that hasn’t been certified formamide-free. Also watch out for mats with undisclosed flame retardants, BPA, and synthetic dyes with heavy metal components. If a brand can’t point you to third-party testing results, that’s a red flag.

What is the safest material for a baby play mat?

Natural rubber and organic cotton or wool are generally considered the safest options. Natural rubber is durable, naturally antimicrobial, and free from the chemical processing required for synthetic foams. Look for OEKO-TEX Standard 100 or GOTS certification on textile mats to verify the claims.

Are EVA foam play mats safe for babies?

EVA foam isn’t automatically unsafe, but many EVA mats are manufactured with formamide, which can off-gas and is a concern for infants who spend a lot of time on the floor. If you choose EVA foam, look specifically for mats that are certified formamide-free, phthalate-free, and have GREENGUARD Gold certification.

What certifications should I look for on a non-toxic baby play mat?

The most meaningful certifications are OEKO-TEX Standard 100 (tests textiles for harmful substances), GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard for organic fiber products), GREENGUARD Gold (focuses on indoor air quality and chemical emissions), and formamide-free verification from a named third-party lab for foam mats.

How thick should a baby play mat be?

For newborns through the rolling stage, aim for at least half an inch of thickness to cushion elbows and knees during tummy time. If you have hard tile or wood floors — which is common in Florida homes — going a bit thicker (around three-quarters of an inch) provides better protection as babies start sitting and toppling over.

How to Preserve Eggs Long Term Without Refrigeration (Methods That Actually Work)

This post contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

If you have backyard chickens, you already know the feast-or-famine reality of egg production. In spring and early summer, our girls are laying like it’s their full-time job — and honestly, it is. We’re pulling 8 to 10 eggs a day out of the coop, and there’s only so much quiche a family can eat. Then comes the Florida summer heat, or a molt, or shorter days in fall, and suddenly the egg basket is looking pretty sparse.

That’s what got me serious about learning how to preserve eggs long term without refrigeration. Not because I’m prepping for the apocalypse (though I’m not mad at self-sufficiency), but because I wanted to use the abundance when we had it and stop scrambling — pun intended — when we didn’t.

And here’s the thing: before refrigerators existed, people preserved eggs all the time. This isn’t some fringe homesteading trick. It’s just old knowledge that got lost somewhere between TV dinners and the invention of the frost-free freezer. Let’s bring it back.

First, the Most Important Rule: Start With Unwashed Eggs

This is the non-negotiable foundation of egg preservation without refrigeration. Fresh eggs laid by your backyard hens have a natural coating called the bloom (or cuticle) that seals the pores of the shell and keeps bacteria out. Once you wash that off, the egg becomes vulnerable — and far harder to preserve.

If you’re buying eggs from the grocery store, those have already been washed and coated with a food-grade mineral oil (standard commercial practice in the US), which is why they require refrigeration. Homegrown eggs, collected promptly and kept clean and dry, are a different story entirely.

So: collect your eggs daily, wipe off any visible debris with a dry cloth, and don’t wash them until right before you use them. That’s it. That’s the foundation.

Method 1: Water Glassing (The Best Long-Term Option)

Water glassing is the method I keep coming back to because it genuinely works, it’s affordable, and it stores a lot of eggs in one container. We’re talking eggs preserved for 12 to 18 months — some people report even longer — without any refrigeration.

What You Need

• Pickling lime (calcium hydroxide — find it in the canning section of most stores or online)
• Water (filtered or distilled is best)
• A clean wide-mouth canning jar — gallon size works great
• Fresh, unwashed, uncracked eggs straight from your hens

How to Do It

1. Mix 1 ounce of pickling lime per quart of water. For a gallon jar, that’s 4 ounces of lime to a gallon of water. Stir well until dissolved.
2. Pour the solution into your jar first.
3. Gently lower your unwashed eggs in, pointy side down. Pack them in carefully — you can fit a lot in a gallon jar.
4. Make sure eggs are fully submerged. If they float, weigh them down with a small zip-lock bag filled with the lime solution.
5. Cover loosely (don’t seal airtight), label with the date, and store in a cool, dark place.

That’s genuinely it. When you’re ready to use an egg, pull it out, rinse it off, and use it just like normal. The whites may be slightly more liquid and the shells can feel a little chalky, but for baking, scrambling, and cooking, they work perfectly.

We do this in a corner of our pantry and it’s become one of those simple homestead rhythms I love — a little like putting up summer preserves, but easier.

Method 2: Mineral Oil Coating

This one is almost embarrassingly simple. You warm up a small amount of food-grade mineral oil (just barely warm — not hot), rub a thin coat over each egg with your hands, and store them pointy-side down in a cool, dark spot. The oil mimics the bloom and seals the shell.

Mineral oil-coated eggs can last up to 9 months at room temperature if stored in a cool pantry or cellar. In Florida, “room temperature” can be a challenge in summer, so a basement or interior pantry away from heat is ideal. A stainless steel water bottle full of cold water next to your storage spot won’t help (ha), but keeping them in the coolest part of your home makes a real difference.

Method 3: Freeze-Drying and Dehydrating (For Longer Shelf Life)

If you have a freeze dryer, you can preserve whole beaten eggs for up to 25 years. That’s beyond most home setups, but it’s worth mentioning. A more accessible option is dehydrating scrambled eggs using a regular food dehydrator — the result lasts 5 to 10 years stored properly and reconstitutes well in baking or cooked dishes.

This isn’t our primary method, but if you have a large flock and a big egg surplus, it’s worth exploring.

What About Freezing Eggs?

Yes, you can freeze eggs — just not in the shell (they’ll crack). Crack them into a muffin tin or ice cube tray, freeze solid, then transfer to a freezer bag. They’ll keep for up to a year in the freezer. This is our go-to for egg surplus that we want to use within the year without dealing with the lime solution.

Making It a Learning Moment (Because of Course We Do)

One of the things I love about homesteading with kids is how naturally it folds into our Charlotte Mason approach. The chickens aren’t just a chore or a cute backyard feature — they’re a living science curriculum.

When we set up a water glassing jar, my kids are right there with me. We talk about why the bloom matters, what calcium hydroxide does, why the eggs float or sink. They’re learning chemistry, biology, food science, and history all at once — while standing in the kitchen in their bare feet. That’s the kind of learning that actually sticks.

If you want to deepen the chicken connection in your homeschool, Storey’s Guide to Raising Chickens is one of our most-used reference books, and there’s a wonderful kid-friendly chicken guide that my younger ones flip through constantly. We’ve also done nature journal entries about egg anatomy — the nature journal paired with Faber-Castell watercolors makes for a beautiful afternoon project.

If your kids are into the chicken science side of things, you might also love our post on Best Chicken Breeds for Egg Color Variety (And Which Ones Actually Thrive in Florida) — because the kind of egg matters when you’re choosing what to preserve.

A Few Things to Watch For

• Cracks disqualify an egg. Never water glass a cracked egg — bacteria can sneak in and spoil your whole batch.
• Float test before you use them. A preserved egg that floats in plain water when you pull it out has gone bad. Toss it.
• Label everything with dates. This is just good pantry hygiene. I use a piece of masking tape and a Sharpie on the jar.
• Keep them away from strong-smelling foods. Eggs can absorb odors through the shell, even when preserved.

For the big-picture chicken keeping questions — including how we keep our coop healthy and low-maintenance here in the Florida humidity — check out our post on Best Natural Bug Spray for Chicken Coops (What Actually Works and Won’t Harm Your Flock). A healthy flock means better eggs, and better eggs means better preservation.

The Bigger Picture: Preserving Food, Preserving Skills

There’s something that feels deeply right about learning to preserve food the old way. It connects us to every generation of women before us who figured out how to feed their families through winters and droughts and long stretches when the store wasn’t just a ten-minute drive away.

I think about that a lot when I’m loading eggs into a lime solution with my kids beside me. We’re not doing it because we have to. We’re doing it because it’s good to know how. Because self-sufficiency is a form of freedom. Because the 1990s kid in me still believes that knowing how to do things with your hands is worth more than any app.

If you’re just starting to think about building a more intentional, self-sufficient home, I’d also point you toward Simple Living with Kids: Practical Tips That Actually Work for Real Families — it’s a good place to start when all of this feels like a lot.

You don’t have to do everything at once. Start with one jar of water-glassed eggs. See how it feels. I think you’ll love it.

📖 You Might Also Like:

• Non-Toxic Dish Soap That Actually Cuts Grease (What We Use and Why It Matters)
• Best Natural Bug Spray for Chicken Coops (What Actually Works and Won’t Harm Your Flock)
• How to Make Bone Broth in a Slow Cooker (The Easy Way That Actually Tastes Like Something)

Frequently Asked Questions

How long can you preserve eggs without refrigeration using water glassing?

Water-glassed eggs stored in a pickling lime solution can last 12 to 18 months at room temperature when kept in a cool, dark place. Some homesteaders report even longer shelf life. The key is starting with fresh, unwashed, uncracked eggs that still have their natural bloom intact.

Do you have to use unwashed eggs to preserve them long term?

Yes — this is essential. The natural bloom (or cuticle) on a freshly laid egg seals the shell’s pores and protects it from bacteria. Once you wash an egg, that protective coating is gone and the egg becomes much harder to preserve safely without refrigeration. Store-bought eggs have already been washed and are not suitable for water glassing.

Is water glassing eggs safe?

Yes, water glassing has been used safely for generations and is well-documented in homesteading literature. The pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) creates an alkaline environment that prevents bacterial growth. Always use fresh, uncracked, unwashed eggs, and do a float test before using any preserved egg — if it floats in plain water, discard it.

Can you water glass store-bought eggs?

No. Commercial eggs sold in the US are washed and sanitized before sale, which removes the bloom. Without the bloom, the shell is porous and the lime solution cannot properly preserve them. Water glassing only works reliably with fresh, unwashed, farm-fresh eggs — ideally from your own backyard flock or a local farmer who doesn’t wash their eggs.

What is the ratio of pickling lime to water for water glassing eggs?

The standard ratio is 1 ounce of pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) per quart of water, or 4 ounces per gallon. Stir the solution thoroughly until the lime is fully dissolved, then gently add your unwashed eggs pointy-side down, making sure they stay fully submerged. Store in a wide-mouth jar in a cool, dark pantry.

Florida Homeschool Umbrella School Options Explained (So You Can Pick the Right One and Move On)

This post contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

When we first started homeschooling here in the Pensacola area, I remember sitting at the kitchen table after bedtime, laptop open, kids’ nature journals and half-finished watercolor paintings still scattered across the table, trying to make sense of Florida homeschool law. The terminology alone felt like a foreign language. Umbrella school? Cover school? Home education program? Portfolio review?

I just wanted to teach my kids at home without accidentally doing it wrong. I didn’t need a law degree — I needed somebody to just explain it plainly.

So that’s what this is. A plain-English breakdown of your Florida homeschool umbrella school options, what they actually mean, and how to figure out which one makes sense for your family.

First, Let’s Talk About Florida Homeschool Law Basics

Florida is actually a pretty homeschool-friendly state, which is one of the many reasons we love raising our kids here. But you do have to follow one of the legal pathways laid out in Florida Statute 1002.41.

The three main options are:

1. File a Notice of Intent (NOI) with your county school district
2. Enroll under a Florida-registered umbrella school (also called a cover school)
3. Enroll in a private school that offers a homeschool option

Most families I know in the Northwest Florida area use either the NOI route or an umbrella school. Both are totally valid — it really just comes down to what fits your style and what kind of oversight you’re comfortable with.

What Is a Florida Homeschool Umbrella School?

An umbrella school (sometimes called a cover school) is a private school that enrolls your homeschooled child under their umbrella. When you join one, your child is technically a student of that private school — which means you’re no longer operating as a home education program under the district. Instead, you follow the private school’s requirements.

This matters for a few reasons:

• You don’t have to file a Notice of Intent with your county school district
• Portfolio reviews and annual evaluations are handled by the umbrella school, not the district
• Transcripts and diplomas can be issued by the umbrella school (which is huge for older kids)
• Record-keeping flexibility is often greater, though each school has its own requirements

For families using the Florida PEP scholarship (formerly the Gardiner or Family Empowerment Scholarship), the umbrella school route is one of the accepted ways to satisfy the scholarship’s compliance requirements. Just make sure whatever umbrella you choose is a registered Florida private school — your scholarship coordinator can help you verify this.

What Does an Umbrella School Actually Do?

It varies, but most Florida umbrella schools will:

• Enroll your student and maintain their official records
• Issue report cards and transcripts if you need them
• Conduct or facilitate annual evaluations (sometimes just a portfolio review, sometimes a standardized test)
• Issue a high school diploma for graduating seniors
• Provide some level of accountability or support — ranging from nearly hands-off to quite involved, depending on the school

Some umbrella schools are faith-based and include a statement of faith. Others are completely secular. Some have online portals where you log grades. Others just want a portfolio at the end of the year. There’s a wide range, so it’s worth doing a little research before you commit.

Popular Florida Umbrella School Options to Know About

I’m not going to tell you which one to pick — every family is different. But here are some well-known options that Florida homeschool families use:

Sevcik School (Florida-based)

A long-standing Florida umbrella school that’s been around for decades. Very straightforward process, minimal requirements, and a solid reputation in the homeschool community.

Florida Unschoolers (FUN)

A great fit for families doing more interest-led or Charlotte Mason-style learning. They tend to be low-key and supportive of non-traditional approaches.

Covenant Home Curriculum

A Christian umbrella option with more structured support. Good fit if you want curriculum guidance alongside the umbrella coverage.

Private School Satellite Programs (PSPs)

Some private schools in Florida offer satellite programs where homeschoolers can enroll part-time or full-time for specific classes while remaining home-based for the rest. This can be a nice middle ground.

Your Local Church or Co-op School

Here in Northwest Florida, there are several church-based schools that offer umbrella coverage as part of their homeschool co-op structure. If you’re already plugged into a co-op community, ask around — you might already have access to this.

Umbrella School vs. Filing a Notice of Intent: Which Is Better?

Honestly? Neither is objectively better. Here’s how to think through it:

Filing an NOI with your county might be a better fit if:

• You want to keep things simple and free
• You’re comfortable with the annual evaluation or portfolio review process through the district
• You prefer not to pay umbrella school fees
• You’re newer to homeschooling and want the structure of Florida’s home education program guidelines

An umbrella school might be a better fit if:

• You want your child’s records, transcripts, and diploma to come from a private school
• You prefer not to interact with the school district at all
• You’re homeschooling a high schooler and need credentialed transcripts
• Your umbrella school offers community, support, or curriculum resources you value
• You’re on the PEP scholarship and prefer the private school pathway

For our family, the important thing was having flexibility in how we document our days — because honestly, a Charlotte Mason nature walk through Blackwater River State Forest is school, even if it doesn’t look like a worksheet. Our nature journals count. The hour we spent watching the chickens and talking about their behavior counts. The Sibley Birds guide we pull out at the bird feeder counts. We wanted a pathway that understood that, and our umbrella school does.

What to Look for When Choosing a Florida Umbrella School

Here are the questions I’d ask before signing up:

• Is it a registered Florida private school? (You can verify this through the Florida Department of Education’s private school database)
• What are the annual fees? Most range from $50–$200/year
• What records do they require you to keep?
• How do they handle annual evaluations?
• Do they issue transcripts and diplomas?
• Are they faith-based, secular, or neutral?
• Are they PEP scholarship compatible? (If applicable)
• What support do they offer, if any?

Don’t be afraid to email them directly and ask. Most umbrella school administrators are homeschool parents themselves and are genuinely happy to answer questions.

A Quick Word About Record-Keeping

Whichever path you choose, keeping organized records is just part of the deal in Florida. But I promise it’s not as daunting as it sounds.

For Charlotte Mason families, your records might look like:

• A homeschool planner with daily notes
• Nature study observations and sketches from your nature journals
• Book lists from read-alouds
• Samples of copywork and narrations
• Photos of projects, experiments, and yes — chicken chores

For more on how we approach nature study and documenting it in a way that works with Charlotte Mason, check out our post on Charlotte Mason Nature Study Journal Prompts by Season.

The Bottom Line

Florida gives homeschool families real options, and umbrella schools are one of the most flexible and well-loved pathways — especially for families doing creative, nature-based, or Charlotte Mason-style learning. You don’t have to be a legal expert to navigate this. You just need to understand the basics, ask the right questions, and pick the path that gives your family the most freedom to actually do the good work of raising and educating your kids.

If you’re still sorting out the bigger picture of what homeschooling looks like day to day — the rhythms, the freedom, the intentional choices behind it — you might love our post on Intentional Parenting: What It Actually Looks Like Day to Day. And if you’re looking for curriculum resources once you’ve got your legal path sorted, Rainbow Resource and Timberdoodle are two of our most-used places to shop.

You’ve got this, mama. Go do the thing.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What is a homeschool umbrella school in Florida?

A Florida homeschool umbrella school (also called a cover school) is a registered private school that enrolls homeschooled students under its umbrella. When you join one, your child is legally a student of that private school, which means you don’t need to file a Notice of Intent with your county school district. The umbrella school handles record-keeping, evaluations, transcripts, and diplomas according to their own requirements rather than the district’s.

Do I have to use an umbrella school to homeschool in Florida?

No, umbrella schools are just one of three legal options in Florida. You can also file a Notice of Intent (NOI) directly with your county school district and operate as a home education program, or enroll in a private school that offers a homeschool option. All three pathways are legal and valid under Florida Statute 1002.41.

Are Florida umbrella schools compatible with the PEP scholarship?

Yes, many Florida umbrella schools are compatible with the Florida Family Empowerment Scholarship (PEP). However, it’s important to verify that any umbrella school you’re considering is a registered Florida private school, as this is a requirement for scholarship compliance. Check with your scholarship’s managing organization to confirm compatibility before enrolling.

How much does a Florida homeschool umbrella school cost?

Most Florida umbrella schools charge annual enrollment fees ranging from about $50 to $200 per year, though pricing varies by school and what services are included. Some offer basic enrollment only, while others include transcript services, access to co-op resources, or curriculum support at higher price points.

What records do I need to keep if I use a Florida umbrella school?

Record-keeping requirements vary by umbrella school, but most require you to maintain a log of educational activities, samples of student work, and a reading list. Unlike the Florida home education program route, you follow your umbrella school’s requirements rather than the district’s. For Charlotte Mason families, this typically includes nature journals, copywork samples, book logs, and narration notes. Always confirm your specific umbrella school’s documentation expectations when you enroll.

Best Natural Bug Spray for Chicken Coops (What Actually Works and Won’t Harm Your Flock)

This post contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

If you’ve ever walked out to your chicken coop on a sticky Florida morning, lifted the nest box lid, and watched a hundred tiny things scatter — you know the feeling. Your stomach drops. You do a full-body shudder. And then you start Googling at 6 a.m. in your pajamas.

That was me, about a year into keeping chickens. We had a mite situation. Not a catastrophic one, thankfully, but enough to make me realize I needed a real plan — one that didn’t involve dousing my birds or my kids’ backyard in permethrin and synthetic pesticides.

Because here’s the thing: my kids are out in that coop every single day. They’re collecting eggs, refilling water, holding hens, doing their Charlotte Mason nature observations in the same space. I’m not willing to spray something on those roost bars that I’d be nervous about them touching an hour later.

So I did the research, I did the experimenting, and I’m sharing what actually works for keeping bugs out of the coop — naturally.

Why Bugs in the Coop Are a Real Problem (Especially in Florida)

Here in Northwest Florida, the heat and humidity are basically a five-star resort for parasites. Mites, chicken lice, darkling beetles, flies — they love a warm, moist environment packed with organic material. Which is, unfortunately, exactly what a chicken coop is.

Mites in particular are sneaky. They’re mostly active at night, hiding in cracks and crevices during the day, and they feed on your chickens while they sleep. A heavy infestation can cause anemia, feather loss, and serious stress on your flock. And lice — while they don’t bite humans — spread fast once they’re established.

Flies are more of a nuisance issue, but in Florida summer they can get overwhelming fast if you’re not staying on top of moisture and cleaning.

The good news? You don’t need a single synthetic chemical to manage any of this.

The Best Natural Bug Sprays and Treatments for Chicken Coops

1. Wondercide (Our Go-To Spray)

This is honestly the product I recommend first to any backyard chicken keeper trying to go non-toxic. Wondercide is a cedar oil-based pest control spray that’s safe to use around kids, pets, and — yes — chickens. We spray it along the roost bars, in the corners of the coop, under the nest boxes, and around the perimeter of the run.

It smells like a cedar closet (which I personally love), it breaks down naturally, and it actually works. We’ve used it consistently for over a year now and our mite situation has stayed totally under control. They make formulas specifically for outdoor and yard use, and that’s the one we reach for.

2. Food-Grade Diatomaceous Earth

If Wondercide is our spray solution, food-grade diatomaceous earth is our powder solution — and they work really well together.

DE is a fine, chalky powder made from fossilized algae. It works mechanically, not chemically — it scratches the exoskeleton of insects and causes them to dehydrate and die. That means bugs can’t build resistance to it the way they can to chemical pesticides.

We dust it into the nest boxes, along the roost bars, in the corners and cracks of the coop, and we mix a little into the dust bath area so the chickens can treat themselves. Just be careful not to inhale it when you’re applying — wear a simple dust mask. It’s food-grade and safe, but the fine particles aren’t great for lungs.

3. DIY Essential Oil Spray

This is a simple one you can mix up at home and keep in a spray bottle in the coop. Here’s what we use:

• 2 cups water
• 1 tablespoon liquid castile soap
• 15 drops peppermint essential oil
• 10 drops eucalyptus essential oil
• 10 drops lavender essential oil
• 10 drops tea tree essential oil

Shake well before each use and spray on roost bars, walls, and around entry points. The strong scents repel mites, lice, and flies. It’s not a cure if you have a full infestation, but as a regular maintenance spray between deep cleans, it’s great. And it makes the coop smell amazing.

4. Herbs in the Nest Boxes

This one sounds like something your grandma would do — and that’s exactly why I love it. Laying fresh or dried herbs in the nest boxes serves double duty: it smells lovely and naturally repels insects. We use whatever we have growing — lavender, mint, rosemary, and thyme are all excellent choices.

This is also a sweet little nature lesson for the kids. Ours have learned which herbs repel which pests, and they help gather cuttings from our herb garden. If you want to grow your own, an herb garden starter kit is an easy way to get a variety going.

Keeping Flies Under Control Naturally

Flies are a separate battle from mites and lice, and in a Florida summer they can genuinely get out of hand if you’re not managing moisture.

The biggest thing you can do is keep the coop dry. Wet bedding is fly heaven. We clean the droppings board daily (our kids have a chore chart and this is on it — character building, y’all) and do a full bedding change weekly in summer.

Beyond that:

• Apple cider vinegar in the water — a tablespoon per gallon helps keep flies from being attracted to the water source. Our chicken waterer makes it easy to manage clean, fresh water without a lot of spillage that creates moisture issues.
• Fly traps — the old-fashioned sticky kind hung outside the coop. Not pretty, but effective.
• Fresh herbs hanging in the coop — bundles of basil and mint near the door help deter flies at the entry.

Good Coop Management Is the Real Bug Prevention

I want to be honest with you: no spray in the world — natural or chemical — will fix a bug problem if the underlying coop conditions aren’t right. Bug prevention is 80% management, 20% treatment.

That means:

• Cleaning regularly and not letting bedding get damp
• Making sure the coop has good ventilation (crucial in Florida heat)
• Doing monthly inspections — lift the roost bars, check under nest boxes, part feathers on your birds and look at the skin near the vent
• Quarantining new birds for at least 2-3 weeks before integrating them with your flock

If you’re newer to keeping chickens and want a really solid reference, Storey’s Guide to Raising Chickens has a thorough section on pest management that’s worth reading through. And if your kids are the ones most interested in the flock, the Kid’s Guide to Keeping Chickens covers this in age-appropriate language — mine love it.

You might also want to check out my post on Best Chicken Breeds for Egg Color Variety (And Which Ones Actually Thrive in Florida) — because some breeds are also more resistant to mite issues than others.

What We DON’T Use

Just to be clear about where we land: we skip permethrin, Sevin dust, and other synthetic pesticide treatments, even though they’re commonly recommended in backyard chicken circles. They work, yes — but I’m not comfortable with them in a space where my kids spend time daily, and I’m not convinced we need them when the natural options are doing the job.

If you’re trying to figure out how all these choices fit into a bigger non-toxic home picture, Intentional Parenting: What It Actually Looks Like Day to Day is a good read — it’s where a lot of this thinking starts for our family.

Our Monthly Coop Treatment Routine

Here’s the quick version of what we actually do:

Weekly: Remove droppings board, refresh nest box herbs, spray DIY essential oil spray on roost bars.

Monthly: Full bedding change, dust entire coop interior with food-grade diatomaceous earth, spray Wondercide on walls and under nest boxes, inspect birds.

Seasonally: Deep clean with hot water and white vinegar before reapplying treatments. This is especially important going into Florida summer.

And I’ll say it again — the automatic coop door has been a game changer for us in terms of coop hygiene, simply because it means the door closes at dusk and opens at dawn without us having to handle it, which keeps overnight moisture and critters more controlled.

Look, none of this has to be complicated. Once you get a rhythm going, coop bug prevention becomes just a normal part of your weekly routine — something the kids can help with, something that keeps your flock healthy, and something you can feel genuinely good about doing without a single synthetic chemical. That’s the goal around here.

If you’ve found something that works for your flock that I didn’t mention, drop it in the comments — I love hearing what other backyard chicken families are doing, especially those of you dealing with our fun Florida climate. We’re all figuring this out together.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best natural bug spray for a chicken coop?

Wondercide (a cedar oil-based spray) is one of the best ready-made natural options for chicken coops. It’s safe around birds, kids, and pets, and works well on mites, lice, and flies when applied regularly to roost bars, nest boxes, and coop walls. Pairing it with food-grade diatomaceous earth gives you both a spray and a powder treatment for comprehensive coverage.

Is diatomaceous earth safe to use in a chicken coop?

Yes — food-grade diatomaceous earth is safe to use in chicken coops and is one of the most popular natural pest control methods for backyard flocks. It works by physically damaging the exoskeleton of mites, lice, and other insects. Apply it in nest boxes, along roost bars, and in dust bath areas. Just wear a dust mask when applying, as the fine powder isn’t great to inhale in large quantities.

How do I get rid of mites in my chicken coop naturally?

Start with a thorough deep clean — remove all bedding, scrub the coop with a white vinegar and water solution, and let it dry completely. Then apply food-grade diatomaceous earth to all surfaces, especially cracks and crevices where mites hide. Spray Wondercide or a DIY essential oil spray (peppermint, eucalyptus, tea tree, lavender) on roost bars and walls. Repeat monthly and do weekly spot checks to stay ahead of any reinfestation.

What essential oils are safe to use around chickens for pest control?

Peppermint, lavender, eucalyptus, tea tree, and rosemary essential oils are commonly used in DIY chicken coop sprays and are generally considered safe when diluted properly with water and a carrier like castile soap. Avoid using undiluted essential oils directly on birds. These oils work best as a deterrent and maintenance spray rather than a treatment for an active heavy infestation.

How often should I treat my chicken coop for bugs?

For natural treatments, a monthly full treatment (clean bedding, diatomaceous earth dusting, and a good spray of your chosen natural pest spray) is a solid baseline. In hot, humid climates like Florida, you may want to spray roost bars weekly and refresh nest box herbs every 1-2 weeks. Do a thorough inspection of your birds — parting feathers near the vent and under wings — at least once a month to catch any issues early.

How to Make Bone Broth in a Slow Cooker (The Easy Way That Actually Tastes Like Something)

This post contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

I’ll be honest — I put off making bone broth for way too long because I thought it was some complicated, all-day-hovering-over-the-stove kind of thing. Turns out it’s about the most hands-off thing I cook. You basically do five minutes of prep, walk away, and come back to liquid gold.

We started making it regularly a couple years ago when I was trying to get more nourishing, real-food staples into our weekly rhythm. Our kids eat it in soups, we cook rice and grains in it, and on a chilly Northwest Florida morning (yes, we get those — all twelve of them), there’s nothing better than a warm mug of broth with a little salt and butter.

If you’ve been curious but haven’t tried it yet, this is your sign. Let’s do it.

Why Bone Broth Is Worth Making at Home

Store-bought broth is fine in a pinch, but most of it is watery, over-salted, and doesn’t have anywhere near the gelatin content of a good homemade batch. When your broth gels in the fridge — and it will, if you do it right — that’s the collagen and minerals that came straight from the bones. That stuff is genuinely good for gut health, joints, skin, and immunity.

For our family, it’s also a zero-waste win. We save bones in a zip-lock bag in the freezer all week — from roasted chickens, pork chops, whatever — and when the bag gets full, it’s broth time. Nothing gets wasted, and we’re stretching every dollar from the meat we buy.

And yes — if you have backyard chickens like we do, the carcass from a spent hen makes the most incredibly rich broth you’ve ever tasted. I wrote more about our flock over in Best Chicken Breeds for Egg Color Variety (And Which Ones Actually Thrive in Florida), but just know — dual-purpose birds earn their keep even at the end.

What You’ll Need

The Bones

You’ve got options here:

• Chicken — whole carcass, backs, necks, and feet (feet are magic for gelatin)
• Beef — knuckles, oxtail, short rib bones, marrow bones
• Pork — trotters, neck bones
• Mixed — whatever you’ve been saving in the freezer

For the richest flavor and most gelatin, use a mix of knuckle or joint bones (high collagen) and marrow bones (deep flavor). If you can roast the bones in the oven for 20–30 minutes at 400°F first, do it — it deepens the flavor so much. But if you’re just tossing in a leftover roasted chicken carcass, you’re already ahead.

The Vegetables and Aromatics

This is where you just clean out your vegetable drawer. Truly:

• 2–3 carrots (or carrot peels)
• 3–4 stalks of celery
• 1 large onion, halved (skin on is fine)
• A whole head of garlic, cut in half horizontally
• A handful of fresh or dried herbs — thyme, parsley, bay leaves, rosemary
• 1–2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar (this is important — it helps pull the minerals out of the bones)
• Salt and peppercorns to taste

The Equipment

A slow cooker is genuinely the easiest way to do this. Set it, forget it, go do your morning basket with the kids, feed the chickens, live your life. A 6-quart works great for a chicken carcass or 2–3 pounds of beef bones.

How to Make Bone Broth in a Slow Cooker — Step by Step

Step 1: Add Your Bones

Place your bones in the slow cooker. If you’re using raw bones, roasting them first is optional but recommended for beef. For chicken carcasses straight from a roasted chicken, just toss them in.

Step 2: Add Vegetables and Aromatics

Throw in your carrots, celery, onion, garlic, herbs, and peppercorns. Don’t overthink it — this isn’t precise cooking, it’s more like a long, slow extraction.

Step 3: Add Apple Cider Vinegar

Pour in 1–2 tablespoons. Let everything sit for about 20–30 minutes before turning it on if you can — the vinegar starts working on those minerals right away.

Step 4: Cover with Cold Water

Fill the slow cooker with cold, filtered water — leaving about an inch of headspace. Cold water helps the broth stay clear.

Step 5: Cook Low and Long

• Chicken broth: 12–18 hours on low
• Beef broth: 18–24 hours on low

That’s it. You literally just let it go. I usually start mine in the evening and strain it the next morning. The house smells incredible.

Step 6: Strain and Store

Strain through a fine mesh strainer into a large bowl or pot. Discard the solids. Let it cool, then portion into wide-mouth canning jars for the fridge (good for 5 days) or freeze for up to 6 months.

When it’s cold, a good broth should look like Jell-O in the jar. That gel is everything. That’s your collagen.

Tips for the Best Broth Every Time

Don’t let it boil. A hard boil makes cloudy, sometimes bitter broth. Low and slow is the whole point — that’s why the slow cooker is so perfect for this.

Skim the foam. In the first hour or two, some grey foam may rise to the top. Skim it off with a spoon. It’s not harmful, just not pretty.

Use cold water. Starting with cold water and a slow heat-up keeps the broth clearer.

Add feet if you can. Chicken feet are high in collagen and make for an incredibly gelatinous broth. Our local farm store carries them — worth asking around.

Don’t salt heavily until the end (or at all before storing). The broth concentrates as it cooks, so season when you’re ready to use it.

How We Use Bone Broth in Our Home

Once you have a steady supply in the fridge or freezer, you’ll start putting it in everything:

• Cooking rice, quinoa, and lentils instead of water
• As the base for soups and stews (our go-to slow cooker chicken soup in fall and winter)
• Sipping warm from a mug with a pinch of salt when someone’s feeling under the weather
• Deglazing the cast iron skillet for pan sauces
• In the kids’ mac and cheese instead of water

This kind of simple, intentional kitchen practice is exactly what I talk about in Simple Living with Kids: Practical Tips That Actually Work for Real Families — it doesn’t have to be complicated to be meaningful.

Making It a Learning Moment

If you homeschool, this is such a natural kitchen science moment. My kids have learned about:

• Why the broth gels (collagen, gelatin, protein chains — yes, even my seven-year-old gets this now)
• What apple cider vinegar does to the minerals in bones (basic chemistry!)
• How traditional cultures have made broth for centuries, all over the world
• Where our food comes from — especially when we’re using bones from our own chickens

It connects so naturally to our Charlotte Mason approach of learning through real life and living experiences. And if your kids are into nature journaling, they can sketch the process, label the ingredients, and observe how the broth changes from liquid to gel overnight — we use a nature journal for all kinds of kitchen and garden observations like this.

For more on that kind of seasonal, real-life learning, check out Charlotte Mason Nature Study Journal Prompts by Season (For Real Kids Who’d Rather Be Outside).

A Note on Non-Toxic Storage

We store our broth in glass — always. Wide-mouth mason jars are our favorite because they stack neatly and are easy to pour from. Avoid plastic containers, especially for hot liquids. If you’re freezing, leave an inch of headspace so the glass doesn’t crack as the broth expands.

For more on swapping out plastics and choosing safer options in the kitchen, you might like my post on Non-Toxic Baby Products: What to Actually Buy (and What’s Just Marketing Hype) — a lot of those principles apply to the whole family’s kitchen, not just babies.

You Don’t Have to Do It Perfectly

Here’s the thing I want you to walk away with: bone broth doesn’t require a recipe in the precise sense. It’s more of a practice. The bones, the water, the time — that’s really it. Everything else is just adding flavor and nourishment.

Our grandmothers (and their grandmothers) didn’t follow a carefully measured recipe. They just saved the bones, covered them with water, and let them simmer. It’s one of those old-fashioned kitchen habits that got lost somewhere in the convenience-food era, and bringing it back just feels right.

If you’ve got a slow cooker, some saved bones, and a free evening to get it started — you’ve got everything you need. Give it a try this week. I think you’re going to love it.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How long should I cook bone broth in a slow cooker?

For chicken bone broth, cook on low for 12–18 hours. For beef bone broth, go 18–24 hours on low. The longer it simmers, the more minerals and collagen you’ll extract from the bones. Avoid cooking on high — a gentle, slow simmer is what gives you a clear, rich broth.

What bones are best for making bone broth?

A mix of joint or knuckle bones (high in collagen) and marrow bones (great for flavor) gives you the best results. For chicken, a whole carcass, necks, backs, and feet work beautifully. For beef, try oxtail, knuckles, or short rib bones. Roasting raw bones in the oven first adds deeper flavor.

Why does bone broth gel when it cools?

That gel is collagen that’s been extracted from the connective tissue and cartilage in the bones during the long cooking process. When it cools, it solidifies into a gel — and that’s exactly what you want. A gelatinous broth is a sign of a nutrient-rich, well-made batch. It liquefies again when heated.

Do I need to add apple cider vinegar to bone broth?

It’s not strictly required, but it’s highly recommended. Apple cider vinegar is mildly acidic and helps break down the bone matrix so more minerals — like calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus — leach into the broth. You only need 1–2 tablespoons, and you won’t taste it in the final broth.

How do I store homemade bone broth and how long does it last?

Store cooled bone broth in glass jars in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, or freeze it for up to 6 months. Wide-mouth mason jars work great for both fridge and freezer storage — just leave an inch of headspace if freezing so the glass doesn’t crack as the liquid expands.

Florida Backyard Beekeeping for Beginners: What You Actually Need to Know Before You Start

This post contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

I’ll be honest — beekeeping was on my “someday” list for years. Right there next to sourdough bread and raising quail. It felt a little big, a little intimidating, like maybe it was for someone more capable than me.

And then one spring afternoon my kids and I were sitting in the backyard watching our chickens scratch around, and a big fat bumblebee landed on the rosemary bush by the fence. My oldest looked up at me and said, “Mama, why don’t we have bees?”

Good question, kid.

We’re in Northwest Florida — Pensacola area — and let me tell you, if you’re going to keep bees anywhere, Florida is a pretty spectacular place to do it. Our winters are mild, our bloom season is long, and there is no shortage of wildflowers, citrus, and gallberry for your girls to forage on. Once I started actually researching it, I realized beekeeping wasn’t nearly as out-of-reach as I’d made it in my head.

Here’s what I wish someone had just sat down and told me at the beginning.

Why Florida Is Actually a Great Place to Start Beekeeping

Most of the country has a hard stop on beekeeping in winter — colonies have to be managed for cold, wrapped, kept alive through months with no forage. Here in Florida? Our bees are often still foraging in December. We’ve got blooms from late winter straight through fall, and the longer active season means your colony has more time to build up honey stores and population before you ever have to worry about a rough stretch.

The flip side: Florida heat and humidity mean your hives need good ventilation, and you’ll want to be thoughtful about hive placement. Full afternoon shade is your friend down here. We put ours near our back fence line where they get morning sun and shade by 1pm, and that’s made a noticeable difference.

What You Actually Need to Get Started

You don’t need a barn full of equipment. Here’s the honest beginner list:

The Hive

Most Florida backyard beekeepers start with a Langstroth hive — it’s the standard stackable box style you’re probably picturing. You’ll want at minimum a bottom board, one deep brood box, a medium super, an inner cover, and a top cover. You can buy these as a kit or piece together your own setup.

Site your hive so the entrance faces southeast if you can — bees like early morning sun to get them moving — and make sure it’s level front-to-back with a very slight forward tilt so rain doesn’t pool inside.

Your Protective Gear

Please don’t skip this part. A good veil and jacket are non-negotiable, especially when you’re new and your movements are still a little uncertain. Gloves too, at least at first. The beekeeping starter kit I found on Amazon had everything we needed to get suited up without spending a fortune — jacket, veil, gloves, and a hive tool all in one box.

Your Bees

You’ll want to order a package of bees or a nucleus colony (called a “nuc”) from a reputable local supplier. In Florida, I’d strongly recommend buying locally — Florida bees are already adapted to our heat, humidity, and specific forage. Check with your local beekeeping association (Florida has a great network of them) or your county extension office for recommended suppliers.

Florida-Specific Rules You Need to Know

This is the part people skip and then regret. Florida does require that beekeepers register their colonies with the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (FDACS). It’s a simple process and costs very little, but it’s the law — and it actually works in your favor because registered beekeepers get support and resources from the state apiarist program.

You’ll also want to check your local municipality or HOA rules. Some areas in Escambia County and surrounding areas have specific setbacks — meaning your hive needs to be a certain distance from property lines or neighbor’s homes. A quick call to your county extension office will get you straight answers fast.

And one more Florida-specific thing: Africanized honey bees. They are present in parts of Florida. This is not a reason to panic, but it is a reason to source your bees carefully, keep calm and gentle stock, and requeen if your hive ever becomes unusually defensive. Most backyard beekeepers never have an issue, especially in the panhandle region where Africanization pressure is lower than South Florida.

How Beekeeping Fits Into Our Homeschool

This is honestly my favorite part to talk about. If you’re doing any kind of Charlotte Mason or nature-based learning, bees are an absolute goldmine.

We’ve used our hive as the jumping-off point for lessons on pollination, ecosystems, geometry (hexagons!), the lifecycle of insects, and even basic economics — honey production, division of labor, the whole thing. My kids started keeping detailed observations in their nature journals, sketching bees, drawing comb cells, and writing down what they noticed each time we opened the hive.

We also grabbed a pocket microscope so they could look at pollen up close — that was a full morning of school right there, no curriculum needed. This is exactly the kind of thing I mean when I say living books and living experiences beat a worksheet every single time.

If you want more ideas for weaving nature observation into your days, check out our Charlotte Mason Nature Study Journal Prompts by Season — lots of it translates beautifully to bee study.

Managing Your Hive Through the Florida Seasons

Spring (February–April)

This is your big build-up season. Colonies are expanding rapidly, forage is blooming, and you’ll be doing regular inspections to watch for swarm cells and make sure your queen has room to lay. Add supers before they need them, not after.

Summer (May–August)

Heat management is everything. Make sure there’s always water nearby — bees need it to cool the hive, and they’ll find your neighbor’s pool if you don’t provide an alternative. A simple dish with marbles and water works great. Keep shade on the hive during peak afternoon heat.

Fall (September–November)

The goldenrod and wildflowers give your colony a late-season boost. This is a good time to assess honey stores and make sure they’re set up well going into the mild Florida winter.

Winter (December–January)

Honestly, our bees barely slow down. You’ll do fewer inspections, but there’s still activity and some foraging. This is a good time to treat for Varroa mites if needed and to plan for spring splits.

A Word About Integrating Bees With Your Backyard Flock

We get asked about this a lot since we have chickens too. The short answer: they mostly ignore each other. Our chickens occasionally snap at a bee that gets too close to their feed, which is not smart on the chicken’s part, but nobody’s been seriously hurt. Just don’t place your hive directly in the path your chickens travel daily, and give everyone their own space.

If you’re still building out your backyard homestead, our post on Best Chicken Breeds for Egg Color Variety (And Which Ones Actually Thrive in Florida) is a good companion read.

My Honest Recommendation for Getting Started

Join a local beekeeping club before you buy a single piece of equipment. Seriously. The Escambia Beekeepers Association and neighboring county clubs offer mentorship programs, hands-on hive days, and a community of people who genuinely want to help you succeed. Go to a meeting, ask questions, and ideally get your hands in someone else’s hive before you set up your own. That alone will save you so much second-guessing.

Then grab your beekeeping starter kit, register with FDACS, source local bees, and just begin. The bees will teach you more in one season than any book can.

And speaking of a natural ecosystem for your whole backyard — if you’re not already collecting rainwater to keep your garden and animals watered through dry stretches, that’s worth setting up alongside your hive. We wrote all about it in Best Rain Barrel Setup for Florida Homes (What Actually Works Down Here).

Beekeeping has been one of those things that’s made our backyard feel more alive — more connected, more purposeful. My kids talk to the bees, they watch for them on flowers during our nature walks, they understand now in this deep and instinctive way why pollinators matter. That’s the kind of education that sticks. Not because we planned a unit study around it, but because we just let them get close to something real.

You don’t have to do everything at once. You don’t have to be an expert before you start. You just have to start.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a permit to keep bees in Florida?

Yes — Florida requires all beekeepers to register their colonies with the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (FDACS). The process is simple and inexpensive. You’ll also want to check your local county or municipality rules for any setback requirements from property lines.

When is the best time to start a beehive in Florida?

Late winter to early spring — roughly February through April — is ideal in Florida. Colonies installed in early spring have the entire bloom season ahead of them to build up population and honey stores before the intense summer heat sets in.

Are Africanized bees a problem for Florida backyard beekeepers?

Africanized honey bees are present in parts of Florida, particularly South Florida. In the Panhandle region the risk is lower, but it’s still important to source bees from reputable local suppliers, maintain gentle stock, and requeen any hive that becomes unusually defensive. Most backyard beekeepers in Northwest Florida never have a serious issue.

How many beehives should a beginner start with?

Most experienced beekeepers recommend starting with two hives rather than one. Having two allows you to compare colonies side by side, borrow resources like frames of brood or honey between hives if needed, and better understand what ‘normal’ looks like. It sounds like more work but it actually makes troubleshooting much easier.

Can I keep bees if I also have backyard chickens?

Yes, bees and chickens coexist just fine in most backyard setups. The key is to place your hive away from the main chicken traffic areas and make sure the hive entrance isn’t in a spot where chickens congregate. Chickens may occasionally snap at a passing bee, but serious conflicts are rare and both animals generally mind their own business.